There is plenty of information about Zeljava Airbase online, but much of it was written years or even decades ago. The site has changed, visitor numbers have changed, and some of the conditions described online no longer reflect what you will actually find today.
What Zeljava Is Really Like Today / 2026
I’m Antonio, a local guide from the Zeljava area, and I spend several hours inside the underground complex almost every day during the season. This article is based on what I currently see on the ground — from the condition of the tunnels and surrounding area to the practical issues visitors should actually be aware of.
Is Zeljava Airbase Safe to Visit?
Zeljava today is very different from the Zeljava of even a few years ago. The abandoned airbase has become one of the most visited attractions in the region, with hundreds of people visiting the site on busy days and, at times, numbers approaching a thousand visitors.
The number of people exploring Zeljava every day shows how frequently the site is visited today. Serious incidents involving visitors are not something that occurs regularly.
I spend several hours inside the underground complex almost every day during the tourist season, so I see first-hand how visitors move through the site and what conditions are actually like today.
That does not mean that Zeljava should be treated like a conventional tourist attraction. It is an abandoned military facility, and visitors should follow a few basic rules and use common sense while exploring it.
The main risks are not the things many people imagine. Inside the tunnels, visitors need to watch where they are walking, as some areas have uneven surfaces, open shafts, exposed metal and low sections of concrete. Visibility can also be poor, particularly in the deeper parts of the complex, where fog can sometimes form.
The surrounding mountain is a different matter. Visitors should remain within the accessible areas of the airbase and avoid entering remote or inaccessible parts of Mount Plješevica.
With these basic precautions, the areas of Zeljava normally visited by tourists can be explored safely. It is a place that deserves respect and attention, but there is no need to approach a visit with unnecessary fear.
Are There Landmines at Zeljava?
The possibility of landmines is one of the most common concerns people have before visiting Zeljava. Given the history of the region and the airbase’s location close to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, it is understandable why many visitors ask about it.
For visitors exploring the accessible areas of Željava Airbase, landmines are not something they need to worry about. The areas around the airfield, tunnel entrances and the routes normally used by visitors have been cleared and have been regularly visited for years.
There is also a sign still standing at the site marking the completion of demining work in 2018 as part of the project “De-mining of Areas Along the Border with the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina in Lika-Senj County,” supported by European Union funding.
The wider situation in Croatia has also changed significantly. On 1 March 2026, Croatia officially became a country free from mine danger after all known mine-suspected areas in the country were cleared. You can read the official update from the European Commission’s Representation in Croatia here: Croatia after three decades without mines.
That does not mean visitors should treat the entire surrounding mountain as an area for unrestricted exploration. Higher and inaccessible parts of Mount Plješevica are not part of the normal visitor area, and there is simply no reason to leave the accessible parts of the airbase to explore remote terrain.
The rule is simple: stay within the areas normally used for visiting Zeljava. If you do that, landmines are not something you need to worry about during your visit.
Can You Accidentally Cross Into Bosnia and Herzegovina?
No, you are very unlikely to accidentally cross the border into Bosnia and Herzegovina while driving around Željava Airbase.
The runways on the Bosnian side of the former airbase are clearly separated from the Croatian side by concrete roadblocks and warning signs. These barriers make it clear where visitors should not continue.
Doors 4 is a different situation. It is located directly on the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. While it is legal to reach the area and remain on the Croatian side, you can expect a police check because of its proximity to the border.
Personally, I avoid taking visitors out through Doors 4. Not because of any particular problem, but because I prefer to avoid unnecessary complications or delays. However, in my experience, encounters with the Croatian police in this area have always been professional and straightforward, usually involving a brief check and a short conversation.
The simple rule is to pay attention to the signs and barriers and remain on the Croatian side of the airbase. If you are driving through the normal accessible areas, accidentally ending up in Bosnia and Herzegovina is not something you need to worry about.
Watch Your Phone Signal Near the Border
One of the most common problems visitors can experience at Zeljava has nothing to do with the tunnels or the abandoned airbase itself — it is mobile phone roaming.
Because Zeljava is located directly next to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, at the foot of Mount Plješevica, phones can automatically connect to a Bosnian mobile network even while you are still on the Croatian side. For visitors from the European Union, this can result in unexpected roaming charges, as Bosnia and Herzegovina is not part of the EU roaming area.
Before visiting, it is a good idea to check your phone’s network manually or disable data roaming if you do not need mobile data. A quick check of your network operator can save you from an unpleasant surprise on your next phone bill.
Is There Radiation Inside Željava?
No. There is no radiation hazard inside the Zeljava underground complex.
This is another concern I occasionally hear from visitors, probably because Zeljava was one of the largest and most secretive military facilities in former Yugoslavia. However, the airbase was never a nuclear facility, and there is no radiation inside the tunnels.
Unofficial radiation measurements carried out inside the complex have not detected any radiation above normal background levels. It is also worth considering that if the site were known to contain a radioactive hazard, such an area would not be completely open and accessible without controls in a European Union country.
The underground complex was designed to protect aircraft, equipment and personnel from a possible nuclear attack, but that is very different from storing or operating nuclear weapons or radioactive materials inside the mountain.
That said, visitors should remember that they are entering destroyed and abandoned underground tunnels. Depending on the conditions inside, you may encounter stale air, humidity and mould. For a short visit, this is generally not a problem for most visitors, but it is part of the reality of exploring an abandoned underground complex.
Today, radiation is simply not something visitors need to worry about when exploring Zeljava. The more realistic things to pay attention to are much simpler: watch your head around low concrete and metal structures, and watch where you step in areas with uneven surfaces or open shafts.
What Is the Biggest Problem Inside Zeljava?
The biggest problem inside Željava today is motor vehicle traffic.
Without regular control over what enters the complex, Zeljava is essentially an abandoned military facility where there are very few rules governing vehicle use. Cars, motorcycles and other vehicles regularly enter the tunnels, raising large amounts of dust and adding exhaust fumes to the air.
Because the tunnels are an enclosed underground environment, the effects can be noticeable. After several vehicles have passed through, the air can become dusty and less pleasant to breathe, while visibility can also deteriorate.
If you want to experience Zeljava in quieter conditions, early mornings and late afternoons are generally the best times to visit. Weekends tend to be busier, with more visitors and more vehicle traffic inside the complex.
As someone who spends several hours inside Zeljava almost every day, this is one of the biggest differences I notice between a quiet visit and a busy one. The tunnels themselves have not changed — but the number of vehicles using them can completely change the atmosphere inside.
Is It Easy to Get Lost Inside the Tunnels?
After spending so many hours inside Zeljava, I probably have a slightly biased view of how easy it is to find your way around. To me, the complex feels familiar and relatively easy to navigate. But guests often remind me that this is not necessarily how it feels on a first visit. I have had visitors tell me that they would not feel comfortable being left inside on their own because they were not sure they would find their way back out.
The main tunnel is relatively easy to understand because of its simple layout. If you know the basic shape of the complex and keep to the main passage, finding your way around is not particularly difficult. The smaller corridors, side passages and individual rooms are a different story. Without a good sense of direction, it can be surprisingly easy to lose track of where you are.
For that reason, it is a good idea to look at a map of the complex before entering. Even a basic understanding of the layout makes a big difference once you are inside.
During the summer season, the complex is also rarely completely empty. Seeing other visitors inside the tunnels can make orientation easier, particularly if you are unsure which direction leads back towards the main entrance.
Most self-guided visitors do not explore the entire complex anyway. They tend to stay around the main entrance and explore only the first section of the tunnels before turning back.
Another factor that can make navigation more difficult is fog. During certain summer conditions, fog can form inside parts of the complex and significantly reduce visibility. When you can see only a short distance ahead, even a familiar-looking tunnel can suddenly feel much less straightforward to navigate.
So, is it easy to get lost at Zeljava? The main tunnel is relatively easy to follow, but the complex becomes much more confusing once you start exploring its smaller passages and rooms. Looking at the map beforehand, knowing your limits, and bringing a strong flashlight are simple ways to make the experience much easier.
What You Should Know Before Visiting Zeljava
Zeljava is not a place you need to be afraid of, but it is a place you should approach with some respect. It is a huge abandoned military complex that has been open to visitors for years, and the conditions inside can change depending on weather, traffic and how busy the site is.
Most of the practical risks are easy to avoid: stay in accessible areas, watch where you walk and what is above you, keep an eye on the signs near the border, and be aware that your phone may connect to a Bosnian network. A strong flashlight and suitable footwear will make a noticeable difference.
If you want a quieter experience, early mornings and late afternoons are generally the best times to visit, while weekends tend to be busier.
I spend several hours inside Zeljava almost every day during the season, and even after all this time, the complex still has something different to show depending on the conditions. That is part of what makes Zeljava worth experiencing in person — it is not a museum preserved behind glass, but a real piece of history that has been left largely as it was.
About the Author
I’m Antonio, a local guide from the Zeljava area and the founder of Thrill Quest. During the tourist season, I spend several hours inside the underground complex almost every day, guiding visitors and keeping up with the conditions on the ground.
This first-hand experience gives me a current perspective on Zeljava — from the condition of the tunnels and surrounding area to the practical issues visitors should actually be aware of.
About us
Explore Zeljava with Thrill Quest — where history meets adventure.
Into the Underground
Where History Meets Adventure
Walk through Zeljava Airbase and hear why this unique underground tour leaves a lasting impression on our guests.
info@thrillquest.hr
Contact us anytime
Thrill quest takes you on guided underground adventures at Zeljava Airbase.
Languages
Site map
Contact Us
Plitvice, Croatia
+385 99 840 35 36
info@thrillquest.hr
Copyright 2026, Thrillquest. All Rights Reserved.
- Terms of Services
- Privacy Policy